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IRAQI KURDISTAN

JANUARY 2008


They call it Iraqi Kurdistan, but once inside, references to Iraq are few and far between.


Iraqi Kurdistan: Wait a minute! I thought Iraq was a failed war, a tragic disaster, and nobody had an ounce of appreciation for what America's done. Oh, I forgot, only bad news sells newspapers and increases television viewership, but every once in a while, the truth manages to squeak through.

Try to imagine a peaceful and stable Iraq where business is
booming and Americans are beloved. Now open your eyes because
(there is) a part of Iraq which fits that description: it's called
Kurdistan. Technically, it's inside Iraq but the Kurds who live
there behave as if they already live in a separate state. They have
their own prime minister, their own army, their own border patrol,
even their own flag. And the overwhelming majority of Kurds will
tell you they want nothing to do with Baghdad and the rest of Iraq.
And why would they after the brutal way Iraqis under Saddam treated
them in the past? Why would they when they’re doing just fine on
their own?
-- 60 Minutes (CBS)

All very true. The Kurdish flag is everywhere. The only remaining attachment to Iraq is the use of the currency. I traveled here with a close friend. We were treated very well and I felt safer than I ever felt in any country in Central and South America. Not convinced?

Asked how many American soldiers have been killed in the Kurdish-controlled
area since the beginning of the war, Nechervan Barzani, the 40-year-old prime
minister of what is officially called the Kurdistan Regional Government,
replied "No one."
-- 60 Minutes (CBS)

But who exactly are the Kurds? And why should we care about them?

Kurds like to tell people that they are the largest nation in the world
without a state of their own. There are roughly 25 million of them,
predominantly non-Arab Muslims practicing a traditionally tolerant variant
of Islam. Most live in the region where Iraq, Turkey and Iran meet.

-- Smithsonian Magazine

So why cheer about America's disposal of Saddam Hussein? Because behind the non-stop America bashing that's been taking place over the last several years, one simple fact has been lost -- Saddam Hussein treated the Kurds like animals.

In the 1980s, Saddam Hussein sought to solve the Kurdish problem by
eliminating them in vast numbers; as many as 200,000 died on his orders,
often in chemical weapons attacks. Thousands of villages were destroyed.
Survivors who had lived by farming were herded into cities where they
subsisted on government handouts.
-- Smithsonian Magazine

Here's the tricky part. The Kurds and Turks are traditionally enemies, but America is friends with both of them. So how can the Kurdish problem be solved without alienating one or the other? Ironically, the solution may lie with the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK), a terrorist organization that insists on creating a Kurdish nation extending deep into southeast Turkey. America does not support them, Turkey is at war with them, and most Kurds are smart enough to see that the PKK is sabotaging their window of opportunity to have their own nation -- or at least the closest thing resembling one. That's precisely why America is providing intelligence to Turkey to assist their recent cross-border incursions against them. The PKK, it seems, are of no help to anyone except themselves, much like the Taliban and Hamas.

When the PKK detonated a bomb and blew up a Turkish military bus in the center of Diyarbakir (Turkey) just days before I arrived there, I thought to myself these guys are pretty much finished. This can only unite Turks and Kurds in Turkey against the PKK. Oh, and their apology for killing bystanders in that attack. Yeah, right! Put down your weapons and join the future. It's sitting in your lap.

So here we are, left with several unanswered questions on how this is all going to play out:

  • Will the Kurds get an autonomous state within the sovereign boundaries of Iraq, or will the Kurds break away from Iraq and get their own nation?
  • What will become of the Shiite and Sunni areas of Iraq? Will they be split as well?
  • Will Baghdad become a nominal capital for an Iraq divided into three parts?
  • Will the disputed city of Kirkuk end up in Kurdish territory, Arab territory, or be shared?
  • How will Turkey, who vehemently oppose a Kurdish state and see it as a threat to their national security, be convinced to go along with any of this?
  • Will security conditions ever improve in Arab areas of Iraq to the level of Kurdish areas? God forbid that happens. What would MoveOn.org do with all their free time?


    Wanna go to Iraqi Kurdistan on the cheap? My friend, you will be in uncharted territory. I'd like to personally thank whoever wrote this excellent blog which will give you enough information to lay the foundation for your trip.

    Here is the very short version of how to do it:

    Step 1. Get yourself to Istanbul.

    Step 2. Take the bus from Istanbul to Silopi, the closest Turkish town to the border with Iraq. The bus takes about 24 hours and currently costs 70 lira (US$58.45). It is possible to fly to Iraqi Kurdistan, but the flights are pricey.

    Step 3. Hire a taxi (max US$40) at the Silopi bus terminal to take you through the extensive bureaucracy and drive you to the parking lot on the Iraqi side. You can not walk through this crossing, and you wouldn't want to anyway. There are numerous steps required to get through, and any good driver will know exactly how to push you through the process.

    Step 4. Switch to a taxi that will take you on the short ride to Zakho, the nearest city.

    You can explore Zakho which is surprisingly worth the stop. From Zakho, shared taxis will take you on to Dohuk, Erbil, and Sulaimaniyah. There are no buses between these places (presumably for security reasons), and you will go through more checkpoints that you can count. The taxi from Dohuk to Erbil will go through Kirkuk which is still considered a no-go zone. Don't be alarmed by this; it's routine for the drivers. In Erbil, buses are available to go to Baghdad. If security continues to improve, this is something that should be doable in the future. As someone who has traveled through some tough places, I've come to realize that personal safety often comes down to common sense and simply hoping you are not in the wrong place at the wrong time.

    And also...

  • Bring a ton of dollars. There are no international ATM's, and credit cards are not worth the plastic they are made of. Changing money on the street is not a problem; losing your money is a big problem. In an emergency, there's always Western Union.

  • Guard your passport with your life. If you lose it you will have to go to Baghdad to get a new one. Once you get past the realization you have to go to Baghdad, the Website for the U.S. embassy says it will take up to one month to issue you a new one. How much would that suck?

  • We had no problem finding a simple meal, and the food was tasty without causing ghastly colon eruptions.

  • We stayed at hotels in the 30,000 dinar range (US$25). They were all ice-cold with sporadic utilities. Big spenders will be able to find better accommodations.


    Other snippets:

  • My friend and I found a young, energetic, English-speaking guide in Dohuk. What a treasure. "You're my brother from another mother!" he announced proudly.

  • Kurdistan had recently received a rare snowfall; kids were enjoying a chance to eat snow.

  • Kurds love to offer tea for every occasion...whether you've just met, just eaten, just farted, or even just had some tea.

  • During one of our taxi rides, we stopped in a desolate area where a couple men were selling live chickens. The men casually sliced off the chickens heads and tossed the carcasses into the dirt. Blood poured out of their necks, and their wings frantically flapped for several minutes. Finally they were tossed into a plastic bag so they could be brought home for dinner. Hey, I never lived on a farm, I'm sorry! This was all very new to me.



    A sculpture made of God-knows-what in the center of Zakho


    Delal Bridge, Zakho


    Dohuk street scene


    Unique architecture in Dohuk


    Just another day in the snack closet. (Dohuk)


    This roadside treat tastes just like chicken but needs a lot of ketchup.


    Keep left for Baghdad, if you dare.


    War? What war!


    Kurdish hats at the Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil


    An ancient Citadel overlooks the city of Erbil. The large area inside the
    Citadel is now empty except for the Textile Museum, an antique gift shop,
    and a few lonely soldiers. Refugees had occupied the entire place until
    recently, but now the government hopes to fix it up and turn it into a
    tourist attraction.


    People on a Sulaimaniyah street


    Oh, no! The Americans are leaving. Now we're really screwed!


    And you thought Naples had a trash problem!


    Buy this girl is determined to clean it up.


    Kirkuk street scene


    Noah's Arc art sculpture in Silopi, Turkey.
    Silopi is the Turkish gateway to Northern Iraq.


    An American fails to blend in with the locals at the Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil

    Click here for a random sample of Iraqi Kurdistan shops and signs