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IRAQI KURDISTAN
Iraqi Kurdistan: Wait a minute! I thought Iraq was a failed war, a tragic disaster, and nobody
had an ounce of appreciation for what America's done. Oh, I forgot, only
bad news sells newspapers and increases television viewership, but every
once in a while, the truth manages to squeak through.
Try to imagine a peaceful and stable Iraq where business is
All very true. The Kurdish flag is everywhere. The only remaining
attachment to Iraq is the use of the currency. I traveled here with a
close friend. We were treated very well and I felt safer than I ever felt
in any country in Central and South America. Not convinced?
Asked how many American soldiers have been killed in the Kurdish-controlled
But who exactly are the Kurds? And why should we care about them?
Kurds like to tell people that they are the largest nation in the world
So why cheer about America's disposal of Saddam Hussein? Because behind the
non-stop America bashing that's been taking place over the last several years, one simple fact has been lost --
Saddam Hussein treated the Kurds like animals.
In the 1980s, Saddam Hussein sought to solve the Kurdish problem by
Here's the tricky part. The Kurds and Turks are traditionally enemies, but America is
friends with both of them. So how can the Kurdish problem be solved without
alienating one or the other? Ironically, the solution may lie with the Kurdistan
Workers Party (PKK), a terrorist organization that insists on creating a Kurdish nation extending
deep into southeast Turkey. America does not support them, Turkey is at war with them, and
most Kurds are smart enough to see that the PKK is sabotaging their window of
opportunity to have their own nation -- or at least the closest thing resembling one. That's precisely why
America is providing intelligence to Turkey to assist their recent cross-border
incursions against them. The PKK, it seems, are of no help to anyone except
themselves, much like the Taliban and Hamas. When the
PKK detonated a bomb and blew up a Turkish military bus in the center of
Diyarbakir (Turkey) just days before I arrived there, I thought to myself these guys
are pretty much finished. This can only unite Turks and Kurds in Turkey
against the PKK. Oh, and their apology for killing bystanders in that attack. Yeah, right!
Put down your weapons and join the future. It's sitting in your lap.
So here we are, left with several unanswered questions on how this is all
going to play out:
Wanna go to Iraqi Kurdistan on the cheap? My friend, you will be in uncharted
territory. I'd like to personally thank whoever
wrote this excellent blog which will give you
enough information to lay the foundation for your trip.
Here is the very short version of how to do it:
Step 1. Get yourself to Istanbul.
Step 2. Take the bus from Istanbul to Silopi, the closest Turkish town to
the border with Iraq. The bus takes about 24 hours and currently costs
70 lira (US$58.45). It is possible to fly to Iraqi Kurdistan, but the flights are pricey.
Step 3. Hire a taxi (max US$40) at the Silopi bus terminal to take you through the
extensive bureaucracy
and drive you to the parking lot on the Iraqi side. You can not walk through this
crossing, and you wouldn't want to anyway. There are numerous steps required to get through,
and any good driver will know exactly how to push you through the process.
Step 4. Switch to a taxi that will take you on the short ride to Zakho, the nearest city.
You can explore Zakho which is surprisingly worth the stop. From Zakho, shared
taxis will take you on to Dohuk, Erbil, and Sulaimaniyah. There are no buses between these
places (presumably for security reasons), and you will go through more checkpoints that
you can count. The taxi from Dohuk to Erbil will go through Kirkuk which is still considered
a no-go zone. Don't be alarmed by this; it's routine for the drivers. In Erbil, buses are
available to go to Baghdad. If security continues to improve, this is something that
should be doable in the future. As someone who has traveled through some tough places,
I've come to realize that personal safety often comes down to common sense and simply
hoping you are not in the
wrong place at the wrong time.
And also...
Other snippets:
Click here for a random sample of Iraqi Kurdistan shops and signs
JANUARY 2008

They call it Iraqi Kurdistan, but once inside, references to Iraq are few and far between.
booming and Americans are beloved. Now open your eyes because
(there is) a part of Iraq which fits that description: it's called
Kurdistan. Technically, it's inside Iraq but the Kurds who live
there behave as if they already live in a separate state. They have
their own prime minister, their own army, their own border patrol,
even their own flag. And the overwhelming majority of Kurds will
tell you they want nothing to do with Baghdad and the rest of Iraq.
And why would they after the brutal way Iraqis under Saddam treated
them in the past? Why would they when they’re doing just fine on
their own? -- 60 Minutes (CBS)
area since the beginning of the war, Nechervan Barzani, the 40-year-old prime
minister of what is officially called the Kurdistan Regional Government,
replied "No one." -- 60 Minutes (CBS)
without a state of their own. There are roughly 25 million of them,
predominantly non-Arab Muslims practicing a traditionally tolerant variant
of Islam. Most live in the region where Iraq, Turkey and Iran meet.
-- Smithsonian Magazine
eliminating them in vast numbers; as many as 200,000 died on his orders,
often in chemical weapons attacks. Thousands of villages were destroyed.
Survivors who had lived by farming were herded into cities where they
subsisted on government handouts. -- Smithsonian Magazine

A sculpture made of God-knows-what in the center of Zakho

Delal Bridge, Zakho

Dohuk street scene

Unique architecture in Dohuk

Just another day in the snack closet. (Dohuk)

This roadside treat tastes just like chicken but needs a lot of ketchup.

Keep left for Baghdad, if you dare.

War? What war!

Kurdish hats at the Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil

An ancient Citadel overlooks the city of Erbil. The large area inside the
Citadel is now empty except for the Textile Museum, an antique gift shop,
and a few lonely soldiers. Refugees had occupied the entire place until
recently, but now the government hopes to fix it up and turn it into a
tourist attraction.

People on a Sulaimaniyah street

Oh, no! The Americans are leaving. Now we're really screwed!

And you thought Naples had a trash problem!

Buy this girl is determined to clean it up.

Kirkuk street scene

Noah's Arc art sculpture in Silopi, Turkey.
Silopi is the Turkish gateway to Northern Iraq.

An American fails to blend in with the locals at the Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil