BRAZIL (PART 2)

JANUARY 2006


Sāo Paulo: City skyline as seen from the top of Edifício Banespa

Continuing through Brazil, I stopped in three more cities: Rio de Janeiro, Sāo Paulo, and Foz do Iguaçu (Iguassu Falls)

Rio de Janeiro: is a very popular international destination, and it’s pretty obvious why. There are incredible beaches and random mountains right in the middle of a bustling city. I was here for New Year's Eve, but it wasn't really planned that way. I'm glad it happened because it was really something to see. I would take the Rio experience over the NYC Times Square experience for New Year's Eve simply because...

  • It was it more of a free atmosphere and women are in bikinis
  • There were portable toilets everywhere
  • You could sit on beach or walk along the busy streets
  • The crowd of two million had that unparalleled South American enthusiasm
  • The fireworks show was the best I've ever seen. It went on for so long, people were leaving before it ended

    Also in Rio I visited a favela, which is one of the slums that consumes the side of a mountain. It was a small, organized tour run by Be A Local Tours. This was, without a doubt, one of the highlights of my visit to Brazil.

    Favela Rochina is the largest slum in South America. Brazil did not even acknowledge its existence until recently. Now, at least, there is a small clinic, a post office, and bus service to get off the mountain. The local guide parked at the bottom of the mountain where were took motorcycles up to the favela entrance and then walked the entire length of the community.

    Some observations...

  • There were open sewers. Basically the trash gets washed down the hill whenever it rains
  • The odor from the above mentioned sewers does not go unnoticed
  • There were broken pipes which caused the loss of usable water
  • Many people tap into the electrical grid illegally. Enormous clumps of electrical wires are easy to spot
  • The community had many small shops so residents don't have to make the long trip to the main road
  • The guide asked for us to avoid giving free handouts to anyone. This was supposed to teach them to do something creative to earn money. Some boys were selling bracelets made from electrical wire; some girls were selling handmade hoilday greeting cards.
  • It is a not-so-well-kept secret that drugs and prostitution are the foundation for the local economy
  • Although people live in deplorable conditions, many of the homes had large, new televisions. Some kids even had video game consoles.
  • A man whose leg was shattered in a gunfight with police wished our small group "Happy New Year"

    Sāo Paulo: is one of the largest cities in the world. It's really difficult to rank the size of cities, because there are many factors, such as the location of the city limits, the boundry of the metropolitan area, people who are unaccounted for, etc. In any case, Sāo Paulo is the largest city in South America and the Southern Hemisphere. It is the true definition of a concrete jungle.

    Some Observations:

  • It has a great subway, but three lines in a city this size? You've got to be kidding me!
  • I know locals would be really angry at me for saying this, but there is a lack of things to see and do here. Two days is more than enough. I love big cities, but I would have a lot of trouble being happy living here. Something seems to be missing. It takes more than just people and buldings to make a great city
  • The good news: All big-city amentities are available.
  • It's the little things in life...Sāo Paulo scores major points for having their bus station on the Metro line. In most South American cities, the terminal is way the hell out of town which leaves you at the mercy of either greedy taxi drivers or on a dilapidated local bus with all your gear and locals who earn US$200/month

    Foz do Iguaçu (Iguassu Falls): These waterfalls are far, far superior to Niagara Falls. And they don't have all those awful, tacky museums. It's important to see Foz do Iguaçu from both the Brazilian side and the Argentinian side.

    And finally...

  • I calcluated that my ass was in the seat of a bus for exactly 100 hours while in Brazil. I don't recommend anybody do this. If you are just going to Brazil and back home, you can get an airpass that allows you to fly to several cities. There is also a new Brazilian budget airline called GOL with very reasonable prices as long as you plan in advance. This doesn't work for my style of travel. I need more flexibility.

  • While in Brazil, be sure to catch an episode of Mais Voce, a morning show with Ana Maria Braga. She's kind of like Martha Stewart, except with a personality. Ana Maria deals mostly with food and crafts, but the best part about her show is Louro José, the irreverent parrot puppet who looks like he cost about US$10 at Wal-Mart.


    Rio de Janeiro: Cristo Redentor at sunset


    Rio de Janeiro: Sand sculpture at Ipanema beach


    Rio de Janeiro: Cafe where "The Girl from Ipanema" was written. No, that is not her


    Rio de Janeiro: View from the top of Sugarloaf. Copacabana Beach is on the middle-left


    Rio de Janeiro: The Bonde is the last running streetcar in Rio, and it looks it.


    Rio de Janeiro: Favela Rochina is the largest urban slum in South America


    Rio de Janeiro: Dwellers of Favela Rochina


    Rio de Janeiro: Typical electrical wiring in Favela Rochina


    Sāo Paulo: Finally, a pharmacy that specializes!


    Sāo Paulo: The Copan Building, designed by architect Oscar Niemeyer,
    is the largest reinforced concrete structure in Sāo Paulo,


    Sāo Paulo: A highway through the heart of the city is empty on a holiday weekend


    Sāo Paulo: Libertade - The Asian (mostly Japanese) neighborhood


    Sāo Paulo: Brazilian fast food chains. Not pictured is Bob's, a McDonald's wannabe


    Foz do Iguaçu (Iguassu Falls) near the border of Argentina and Paraguay