PARAGUAY
Paraguay: Landlocked and hopelessly poor, this country is one of the most interesting places I’ve ever been. If you are like me – someone who absolutely loves spots that have zero tourism, then you can’t do much better on the continent of South America. I say this out loud with complete confidence there is no chance this will change anytime soon.
The guide books do a far better job than I could describing the country...
From Lonely Planet – South America on a Shoestring:
“Travelers are scarce in Paraguay and backpackers are less common than jaguars”
“Its people, who are unaccustomed to travellers, are always curious, helpful, and kind”
“With the country’s economy beyond the toilet … no one is exactly jealous of the challenges (President Nicanor Duarte) faces”
From The Rough Guide to South America:
“Paraguay…has acquired an undeserved reputation as boring and uninteresting amongst the travelling community”
Think about this. Do you know anyone who has been to Paraguay? Do you know anyone from Paraguay? Do you know anyone who knows anyone who has been to or is from Paraguay? Just wondering. After all, there are almost six million people here.
The people I spoke to were indeed very curious. They wanted to know where I was from, why I was there, and what life was like in America. On the other hand, I was laughed at twice for no apparent reason – once on a local bus by a family, and once in the lobby of hotel by another family. I’m not exactly sure why. I suspect it was simply incomprehensible that a foreigner was in that precise location at that exact moment. In both cases, I wanted to remind them that I earn more money in two days then they earn in a month, but I did the right thing and bit my tongue.
By the way, you wouldn’t believe the tea and thermos obsession here. Nearly the entire population carries a large plastic thermos and a metal cup with a metal straw. The straw has a filter for good reason. The cup is filled with like 80% tea leaves and 20% water. People were drinking tereré like they smoke cigarettes in Europe.
Ciudad del Este: is a buzzing, chaotic city in Eastern Paraguay on the border of Brazil. It’s known as “The supermarket of South America,” because of the cheap electronics, perfumes, watches, and other assorted crap being sold in large quantities. Crossing from Brazil to Ciudad del Este is almost as shocking as crossing from Southern California into Tijuana, Mexico.
From Lonely Planet – South America on a Shoestring:
“Grubby, crumbling Ciudad del Este has a justifiable reputation as one of South America’s most corrupt cities, frequented by smugglers and money launderers”
Some interesting things:
Asunción: The capital of Paraguay is a very eerie place. I was there on weekend, and the city center was completely empty. I’m talking Twilight Zone empty. Mind you, this is a city of more than 1.3 million people. In the center, there is a large train station with a strategic location. Only one problem – there aren’t any trains in Paraguay.
In the midst of this bizarre emptiness lies the Exelsior Mall…unbelievably modern and complete with food court. (with an Austrian pub). The mall had a handful of people wandering around on a Saturday; on Sunday the crowd was healthier. Near the western entrance of the mall, there were handprints and footprints in the cement, obviously a concept borrowed from Mann’s Chinese Theatre in Hollywood, California.
While the United States has 9/11, Paraguay has what they refer to as “1A.” On August 1, 2004, the Ycua Bolaňos supermarket erupted in flames killing at least 464 people and injuring approximately 409 more. It is believed that the fire started when some gas canisters exploded. Security guards allegedly locked the doors, so people wouldn’t steal anything or flee without paying. You can read about this senseless tragedy here
On the outskirts of Asunción, the charred remains of the Ycua Bolaňos supermarket remain as a memorial to those who perished in the fire. There is an area attached to the building where people come to pray and mourn. While I was there, a family of six came to sing “Happy Birthday” to a girl who had died in the blaze. She would have been sixteen-years-old. It was heartbreaking.
When I left Asunción, I used the bathroom at the bus terminal. Normally at South American bus terminals, there is a frumpy woman collecting a small amount of money for entry. She then holds up a clump of toilet paper and asks if you want any. On this occasion, the woman was missing, but in her place was a little girl. She collected my money and asked me if I wanted paper. I looked at her and thought, “This is really strange. A child is working at a restroom and offering me toilet paper.” It turned out her mom was using the toilet herself, and the girl was 6-years-old. I know this, because I asked her. As I was chatting with her, her mom came bolting out of the restroom. After all, every grown man is a pedophile, right?
On my bus ride leaving Asunción, another 6-year-old girl was in the seat next to me. Her parents were behind us constantly peering over the seat to see if she was ok. After all, every grown man is a pedophile, right? She was really smart and very talkative. Thankfully, she even eventually figured out she needed to speak slowly and simply so I could understand her. I don’t think her family had a clue what a creative gem they had. I made some paper toys for her, and I’ve never seen a little girl so intrigued. I guess I’m kind of a sensitive guy, because when Laura got off the bus with her family and waved goodbye to me for several minutes, I almost started to cry.
JANUARY 2006
On weekends, the streets of Asunción are eerily empty and silent
Ciudad del Este: The supermarket of South America
Ciudad del Este: City Center
Ciudad del Este: Syrian Mural
Asunción: Abandoned Train Station
Asunción: Retired tram on display
Asunción: Panteón de los Héroes
Asunción: Monument and slum
Asunción: One of only a handful of restored buildings
Asunción: The Ycua Bolaňos supermarket remains
standing as a memorial to those who died in its tragic blaze
Asunción: Tributes to loved ones who died in the the Ycua Bolaňos supermarket.
Asunción: Charred remains of the Ycua Bolaňos supermarket are accessible for all to see