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Brazil (Part 1)
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Colombia

COLOMBIA

FEBRUARY 2006


Bogota: Plazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo -- Relax! They're sculptures, not snipers!

Colombia: Forty-plus years of civil war and countless kidnappings have resulted in this country being branded as one of the most dangerous places in the world. Indeed, there are significant problems here, but I believe in nearly all cases, you really have to put yourself directly in the path of danger to find trouble -- and it’s incredibly easy to stay off that path. There is so much hysteria and misinformation about Colombia, I thought I’d take the time to clarify what the situation is at this exact moment in time. Keep in mind things change on a daily basis, and anyone planning on coming here would be extremely prudent to stay up to date on local and national events.

The first thing you need to know is since Alvaro Uribe was elected president in 2002, the situation in Colombia has dramatically improved. Citizens are traveling overland between cities, kidnappings have dropped over 50%, and the guerrillas have been pushed back into the sparsely inhabited jungle. Should Uribe get reelected in May, this trend will likely continue.

Here’s a recent example of where things seem to be headed:

“Hundreds of paramilitary fighters handed in their weapons and renounced violence Wednesday in a ceremony in southern Colombia, the country's peace commissioner said. Separately, the U.S. Embassy in Colombia said it would not penalize companies for hiring former members of armed groups that Washington considers terrorist organizations -- a declaration that may help the fighters abandon warfare and crime.” – AP (Feb. 15, 2006)

Much of these improvements are a result of Uribe's friendship with the United States and a US$7.5 billion American-led campaign called Plan Colombia. This money is being used to improve the everyday lives of Colombians, fight the drug war, and negotiate an end to the nation's civil conflict. I have a feeling the hardest part in all of this will be to convince those who are making billions of dollars on the drug trade to give it all up for a career in vegetable farming.

Yes, there are people fervently against Alvaro Uribe and Plan Colombia. Anytime a government does anything, people are going to be for it or against it. Still, I can’t imagine why any Colombian who wants a better future for his/her country and family would be unhappy with what Uribe has done. As far as the debate on whether or not the U.S. has any business being involved in the first place, or whether or not the Drug War is a lost cause -- well, that’s for you to decide.

Safety in Colombia:

“Travelers to Colombia are often immediately amazed by how normal and orderly everyday life is despite all the problems the country is going through. And most visitors leave Colombia with fantastic experiences and enthusiastic comments – very few experience security problems.” – Lonely Planet: Colombia

In other words, the people who are most afraid of Colombia are the people who have never been to Colombia. If you truly want to know what it's like for visitors, just ask someone who has been there recently.

Yes, it’s true…in September 2003, a group of tourists were kidnapped while trekking to the famous Ciudad Perdida (Lost City). And you may even remember the guy who jumped off a cliff to escape his captors. Please understand this is the exception to the rule, and when something terrible happens, of course you’re going to hear about it. Will I make the news for spending a week here safely? Check your local paper for the answer.

Here are some basic safety measures for travel in Colombia:

  • If you are traveling alone, don't make Colombia your first overseas vacation. Previous travel through other Latin American countries will make you much more comfortable here.
  • Using taxis within cities is considered safer than taking local buses
  • Travel by plane between cities is far safer than travel by bus
  • Travel by bus should only be done during the day
  • Stay on the beaten path. These days, all major highways between cities are generally safe. Going off the beaten path equals enormous risk. Going deep into the jungle simply means your an idiot
  • Backpackers routinely break all of these rules and still rarely have trouble. Probably because they look like slobs; you should too

    Bogota: I have news for you. Bogota isn’t dangerous anymore. It’s a city of 7 million people basically living their lives in an exciting metropolis. Yeah, many of my fellow travelers were robbed, but they were all walking around alone late at night, and that’s a problem in every Latin American city. While visiting, don’t miss the Museo de Oro (Gold Museum) which is definitely one of the best museums on the continent.

    "Bogota is a great place to visit. No, seriously, it is...violent reputations can take a long time to shake — just ask tourism officials in Beirut or the Bronx — but Bogota has been shaking hard for about a decade…Bogota can be dangerous, to be sure, but the primary concern is theft, not kidnappings." – Headline: Bogota is not Just for the Brave Anymore, New York Times (Feb. 12, 2006)

    Missing Manhole Covers: are another issue getting a lot of attention in Bogota. 10,000 of them were stolen in 2005. They weight 110 pounds each and thieves make $5 to $10 for each cover. This problem was basically ignored until Christmas Day 2005 when a 6-year-old boy playing outside his grandmother's house banged his head as he fell into an open manhole, then drowned in the sewage. The city has tried to change the physical composition of manhole covers to deter thieves. So far no luck. Will the outrage over this death end the missing manhole problem? Time will tell.


    Watch your step!

    Three Cool Places to Stop by in Bogota: All in La Candelaria; all in the same area...

    1. L'Jaim (Carrera 3 #14-79) is a delicious Israeli restaurant run by two brothers. The baklava is to die for.

    2. El Corredor de las Vegonias (Carrera 3 #14-35) on the same block is a closet-sized bar run by an artsy couple named Mauricio and Paula, two lovable Colombians who speak pretty good English. There is no sign on the door, and it's only open at night. Stop by for an ice-cold Costeña or a fifty-cent coffee.

    3. Fajaroos Pizza (Carrera 4 #14-69): Where else you can get a slice of pizza and a drink for 2,000 pesos (US$0.89)?

    Catedral del Sol: About 45 minutes north of Bogota, near the town of Zipaquira, is a huge salt mine inside a mountain. About 600 feet underground within the mine is a gigantic Salt Cathedral. This is a must-see for anyone coming to Colombia.

    Villa de Leyva: About four hours north of Bogota is one of the most beautiful places in Colombia -- a colonial town where every building is pre-20th century. All of the buildings are painted white, and most are adorned with green windows and doors. As an added bonus, the garbage collector blows a whistle when he comes by to collect the trash. Although it is very touristy, it should still not be missed.

    Cartagena: In 2003 I visited this city which is often compared to Havana. I only mention it, because it should be on all Colombian itineraries.

    Medellin and Cali: I had originally planned on going to these two cities, but I met travelers who told me not to bother unless I was a party animal. On my craziest day I am not a party animal; I did not go.

    The Color of Colombians: They can be anything from pasty white to freckled redheads to pitch black. It's not too hard to blend in here. However, as soon as I opened my mouth and people heard my accent, heads began to turn.

    Want to Start a Conversation? No need to stoop low and bring up Pablo Escobar. Ask about Juanes or Shakira instead!


    Bogota: Plaza de Bolivar with the Palace of Justice on the right


    Bogota: The Museo de Oro (Museum of Gold) is one of the finest museums in South America


    Bogota: Open-air karaoke. Notice that pay phones are alive and well.


    Bogota: Taking inventory at a tight-quartered electrical supply shop


    Bogota: If you can't find an optician...you're blind!
    (at least a dozen others not pictured)


    Bogota: La Candelaria is the oldest neighborhood in the city


    Bogota: Where's Waldo? Probably inside Inglesla Del Carmen


    Bogota: A word to the wise on the inside door of a hotel room


    Bogota: View from Torre Colpatria, the tallest building in Colombia (48 stories)
    Bullring on bottom left. Bullfighting takes place on Sundays in January and February


    Near Zipaquira: An illuminated cross at the Salt Cathedral


    Near Zipaquira: Sculpture in the Salt Cathedral


    Villa de Leyva: The northern side of Plaza Mayor.
    All buildings in this town are pre-20th century and painted white.


    Villa de Leyva: Iglesia Parroquial, also on Plaza Mayor


    Tunja: The interior of Iglesia de Santo Domingo